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Cúrate is a prototype of how genuine tapas—the kind from Spain—might flourish throughout America. It's that accessible, and it's so appealing that the restaurant is packed day and night. Nothing here seems odd or incomprehensible, including the bocata de calamares, which is a fried-squid sandwich.
Drink and Dish Not to Miss: 2010 Do Ferreiro Cepas Vellas Albariño Rías Baixas, one of Spain's most profound whites, and jamón ibérico de bellota, the world's most prized ham.