Asheville: Brunch City, U.S.A.

Sunny Side Salad: Brunch can be breakfast, it can be lunch — or it can be anything in between. Sunny Point's breakfast salad is one dish that bridges a gap between meals. Photo courtesy of Sunny Point Café

Market Place’s jalapeño biscuits

(yields 20 2-inch biscuits)

3 1/3 cups self-rising flour plus ½ cup for dusting

7 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small cubes plus ¼ cup melted to brush

1 ¼ cups cream, cold 

3  jalapeños, diced (keep seeds) 

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large mixing bowl, combine self-rising flour and butter using a pastry cutter.  It is OK to leave some large pieces of butter.  Fold in the diced jalapeños. Stir in cream to form a “shaggy wet mass” that leaves the sides of the mixing bowl, making sure all the flour is incorporated. Liberally flour a work surface and a rolling pin, and turn the dough out on to the work surface. Fold it over 4 times to create a “book fold” and a rectangular shape.  Gently roll out the dough to a ½ – ¾-inch thickness. Using a floured 2-inch round cutter, cut out the biscuits.  Make sure to use the extra dough after the first cut, and reroll the dough to cut into the remaining biscuits. (At this point the biscuits may be placed on a sheet tray and frozen for later use.) Place the biscuits about 1-inch apart on a sheet tray and brush with the melted butter, and sprinkle with the kosher salt. Bake for 10-14 minutes, or until golden brown.

Posana’s autumn frittata

6 eggs

1/2 cup cream

4 strips bacon (cooked crispy and chopped)

1 cup butternut squash (peeled, cubed and roasted)

4-5 leaves sage (fresh, chopped)

2 ounces bleu cheese

pinch each of salt and pepper

1 tablespoon butter

Whisk eggs and cream. Cook bacon and squash. Heat 9-inch nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add butter and melt. Add egg mixture, bacon, squash, bleu cheese, sage, salt and pepper and mix thoroughly. Bake in oven at 375 degrees for 8-12 minutes, checking every few minutes. Remove from oven and let cool in the pan for 1 minute.  Slide onto a cutting board and cut into four slices. Serve and enjoy.

DeSoto’s cheesy cauliflower patties

1 head of cauliflower

2 large eggs

1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated

1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs

1/2 tablespoon cayenne pepper (more or less to taste)

salt to taste

olive oil

Cut cauliflower into florets and cook in boiling water until tender — about 10 minutes. Drain. Mash the cauliflower while still warm. Stir cheese, eggs, panko, cayenne and salt to taste.

Coat the bottom of a griddle or skillet with olive oil over medium-high heat. Form the cauliflower mixture into patties about 3 inches across. Cook until golden brown and set, about three minutes per side. Keep each batch warm in the oven while you cook the rest.

Strada’s Sicilian egg

1 1/2 pounds mild Italian sausage, casings removed

1/2 teaspoon salt

4 hard-boiled eggs, shells removed

1 cup potato flakes

1/2 cup flour

1 beaten egg

Tomato mustard (recipe follows)

Strada's Sicilian Egg.
Strada’s Sicilian Egg.

In a large bowl combine the sausage. Divide into four portions and on a sheet of waxed paper, shape each portion into a thin round. Place one hard-boiled egg on the sausage round and wrap to enclose the egg, patting gently to smooth the surface. Season the bread crumbs with salt and pepper. Dredge the sausage-wrapped egg in the flour, then dip in the egg and roll in the bread crumbs until well coated. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to cook.

In a deep fryer or large heavy skillet, heat 2-3 inches of oil to 350 degrees. Fry the eggs, two at a time until golden brown and crisp, about 6-8 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels before serving.

        Tomato mustard

2 pounds cherry or grape tomatoes, halved

⅓ cup red wine vinegar, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

⅓ cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoon whole-grain Dijon mustard

3 dried bay leaves

Put the tomatoes, vinegar, salt, pepper, sugar, tomato paste and mustard in a food processor and process until the tomatoes are broken down. Transfer the contents to a large saucepan, add the bay leaves, bring the liquid to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, begin stirring more frequently until the mostarda thickens and very little liquid remains, approximately 15 minutes more. Remove from heat and take out the bay leaves. Give it a taste. It should taste bright, sweet and vibrant, like ketchup. If it’s a little flat, add a touch more vinegar and retaste. Allow to cool before serving.

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About Hayley Benton
Current freelance journalist and artist. Former culture/entertainment reporter at the Asheville Citizen-Times and former news reporter at Mountain Xpress. Also a coffee drinker, bad photographer, teller of stupid jokes and maker-upper of words. I can be reached at hayleyebenton [at] gmail.com. Follow me @HayleyTweeet

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3 thoughts on “Asheville: Brunch City, U.S.A.

    • Walter Harrill

      I don’t know that the definition is the same. When I’m at a brunch place in Asheville, I don’t see that “Chefs bury the dregs of the week’s dinners under rich sauces, arranging them in curious combinations. Brunchers treat servers uncharitably and servers, in turn, view them with contempt.” Nor have I experienced “the hedonistic all-day affair in Dubai, where I topped off courses of Japanese, Chinese and Lebanese food with a full English roast beef dinner, all consumed while hovering above the desert in an air-conditioned five-star hotel restaurant and guzzling a jeroboam of Veuve Clicquot. ” Makes David sound like a jerk to me – maybe he shouldn’t give up on brunch so quickly!

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