What’s new in food: Restaurants begin to reopen post-Helene

RISE UP: Angela and Bryan King are pictured at their restaurant, 12 Bones Smokehouse South. The location hosted a meeting of 125 AIR members the week after Tropical Storm Helene severely impacted the Asheville area's restaurant industry. Photo courtesy 12 Bones

Tropical Storm Helene has had a profound impact on Western North Carolina; one of the hardest-hit industries is hospitality. It was also among the first sectors to begin relief efforts, helping feed the community.

Throughout the crisis, local trade organization Asheville Independent Restaurant Association (AIR) has been on the front line supporting local food and beverage businesses.

“Not since COVID have restaurants here experienced a crisis like this,” says Meghan Rogers, AIR executive director. “I was overwhelmed but not surprised at how quickly restaurants came together with their staff to start feeding the community out their own front doors and with nonprofits.”

Soon after the storm, Rogers says, restaurants and community organizations began reaching out to AIR for information on how they could help. “The first week was really spent figuring out how to feed people; that’s what this industry does.”

The arrival of World Central Kitchen, Crisis Response International and other groups helped mobilize those efforts on a massive scale. The next step was figuring out how to get restaurants open safely. 

On Oct. 8, AIR hosted a meeting for both member and nonmember restaurants at 12 Bones Smokehouse in Arden to hear from Felissa Vazquez, environmental health supervisor at the Buncombe County Health and Human Services Department; 125 people crowded into the room. “It was the first time [since the disaster] people in the industry were together, and we all knew Angela and Bryan [King, owners of 12 Bones] had lost the RAD restaurant,” says Rogers. “It was very emotional.” AIR repeated the meeting the next day via Zoom for 100 more people.

AIR has set itself up as a clearinghouse for information from city, county and state agencies, adding links on its website where restaurant employees and owners can access support resources (see avl.mx/e98  on the internet) and emergency relief grants (avl.mx/e99). The organization also reached out by phone to all member restaurants, assessing needs and operation statuses to create an online listing that includes new operation hours (avl.mx/e9a). 

“This industry is generous and resilient, but Helene hit at the worst possible time for them,” Rogers notes. “Now they’re in need of support from locals and visitors as they return.”

Explore Asheville’s Always Asheville site (avl.mx/e9balso provides information about restaurants that have reopened and those still temporarily closed. Additionally, local food tour guide and writer Stu Helm is doing boots-on-the-ground reporting via social media (avl.mx/prxg) on which restaurants — particularly downtown — are open and how they are operating.

Be sure to check individual restaurant websites and social media pages for current information.

Botiwalla opens downtown

The much-anticipated Oct. 4 opening of Chai Pani Restaurant Group’s (CPRG) second Asheville Botiwalla location in the original Chai Pani space at 22 Battery Park Ave. downtown was delayed by Tropical Storm Helene. Instead, for several weeks, the small spot served as CPRG’s headquarters for making meals for World Central Kitchen where it ultimately made 25,000 hot meals for the community.

On Oct. 23, Molly and Meherwan Irani — who first launched Chai Pani 15 years before — finally cut the ribbon on the new restaurant. Current hours at the downtown eatery are 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. The West Asheville store at 697 Haywood Road is open daily. Learn more at avl.mx/e9c.

Chai Pani pivots to Hurricane Hot Bar

CPRG’s flagship restaurant, which supersized its space in May when it relocated to the South Slope building formerly occupied by Buxton Hall Barbecue, reopened on Oct. 25 with a temporary buffet-style Hurricane Hot Bar for both lunch (11 a.m.-3 p.m.) and dinner (5-9 p.m.).

Favorites like curries, rice, chaat, desi salad, kebabs, pakoras, naan and sweets are served cafeteria-style by kitchen staff. Prices are $16.99 all-you-can-eat for adults, $9.99 for kids ages 10 and younger. Chai Pani is at 32 Banks Ave. The hot bar is not planned as a permanent change, so check the Chai Pani Asheville website for updates at avl.mx/e9d.

Newstock restocks

Among Helene’s commercial casualties in the River Arts District was Newstock Pantry, the prepared meals and provisions shop owned by chefs Ashley Capps and Travis Schultz. After several years of taking online orders for weekly meals and dishes, the couple opened their first brick-and-mortar in September 2022 inside Riverview Station on Lyman Street. The former warehouse space that housed more than 60 artists was decimated by flooding from the French Broad River.

With Newstock’s commercial kitchen located outside the RAD and undamaged by the storm, the couple resumed operations after electricity returned in October using its original model. Capps and Schultz release a weekly menu, take orders online and announce designated pickup sites.

Since reopening, menu items have included coq au vin, smoked pork shank, chicken and dumplings, sweet potato soup and vegetable chowder. To see offerings and learn more, sign up for the weekly newsletter at avl.mx/e9e.

Talkin’ turkey so you don’t have to cook

Preparing everyday dinner without potable water is challenging enough, but a Thanksgiving spread for family and friends? Some might want to bring in the professionals.

Red Fiddle Vittles is taking preorders for Thanksgiving dinner, offering a robust a la carte menu that includes (as long as supplies last) a whole or half Joyce Farms roast turkey with herb gravy, entrée-sized vegan and gluten-free stuffed baby pumpkins, sourdough stuffing, collard greens, mashed potatoes, salad and other sides and sweets. Pickup will be Wednesday, Nov. 27, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., at the storefront at 1800 Hendersonville Road. Learn more at avl.mx/e9g.

Luella’s Bar-B-Que’s Thank-Fully Complete Meal is the whole shebang, from big bird to pumpkin pie. Pulled pork, brisket, smoked turkey breast and barbecued tempeh are other protein options; side dishes include savory cornbread and sausage dressing, sweet potato casserole, and mac and hoop cheese. Pickup is Monday-Wednesday, Nov. 25-27 at Luella’s North, 501 Merrimon Ave., or South, 33 Town Square Blvd. in Biltmore Park. Learn more at avl.mx/e9i.

Rocky’s Hot Chicken Shack has your back when it comes to sides, appetizers and desserts. Rocky’s has deviled eggs and pimento cheese dip to get the Thanksgiving party started; sweet potato casserole, green beans, mac and cheese, corn pudding, collard greens, squash casserole and mashed potatoes are available for surrounding the protein centerpiece. Desserts include Rocky’s Coca-Cola cake and chocolate, banana or butterscotch pudding. Pickup is Tuesday and Wednesday, Nov. 26-27, at 14555 Patton Ave. or 3749 Sweeten Creek Road. Learn more at avl.mx/e9j.

Give a bird

Wild East Farm is partnering with Mother Earth Foods and Asheville Buncombe County Christian Ministry to gift organic-fed, pastured turkeys to families impacted by Tropical Storm Helene. The turkeys are raised entirely on pasture at Lyric and Noah East‘s McDowell County farm. Turkey sponsorships are $120 and can be made through Sunday, Nov. 24. People can also buy a bird for their own table. Learn more at avl.mx/e9p.

Pie bakers get busy again 

Local baking legends not only can help relieve your pie anxiety this holiday season, but buying their wares will support them as they get back in the swing post-Helene.

Beth Kellerhals has built a fervent following for her biscuits, scones and other baked goods — not to mention her stylish outfits, outlandish eyeglass frames and bubbly personality — at local tailgate markets. She was weeks away from opening her first brick-and-mortar, ButterPunk, on Depot Street when Helene devastated the River Art District. Her building suffered significant damage. Rebuilding is underway, but meanwhile, she she’s baking biscuits and pies for Thanksgiving. Follow her on Instagram at avl.mx/e9k for more information and updates on the bakery.

Kelsianne Bebout has baked for Short Street Cakes, Buxton Hall Barbecue and All Souls Pizza. In 2021, she launched her own online baking business, BeeBowBakes, focusing on cakes and pies, plus baked goods for local coffee shops. After Helene, Bebout’s commercial kitchen was without power for three weeks, and many of her wholesale outlets were closed. Now, just in time for peak pie season, she’s returned to direct-to-consumer sales. On her greatest hits menu is chess pie made with local buttermilk and meyer lemon-honey vinegar; Manhattan cherry pie with bourbon-soaked cherries in a toasted rye crust; and autumn custard pie with locally grown ube, sweet potato and apple in a chamomile crust. All pies can be made vegan. She also offers a savory vegetarian pie. Learn more on her website, Flour Coffin (Bebout was an undertaker in a previous life) at avl.mx/e9m.

James Beard Award-winning pastry chef and Madison County resident Camille Cogswell recently told Xpress she intends to host a few pay-as-you’re-able bake sales in WNC leading up to the holiday season. The dates and locations are yet to be decided. Cogswell plans to open her Walnut Family Bakery near Marshall this spring. For updates about Cogswell’s holiday sales, sign up for her email newsletter at avl.mx/e9w.

The 1 % solution for recovery 

A new initiative, 1% for AVL, has been launched by Sourhouse sourdough baking business co-owner Erik Fabian to support the WNC community in the wake of Helene. Fabian has enlisted more than a dozen local companies and individuals to pledge 1% of their sales of items from home baking tools to artisanal foods in November and December toward recovery efforts. To learn more, donate directly or join the coalition, visit avl.mx/e9n.

Dine out for HOPE

Mauricio Montano, owner of El Paso Mexican Restaurants of Hendersonville, invites the community to dine at any of his five local locations on Saturday, Nov. 16, when 10% of every sale will go directly to Project HOPE (Health Opportunities for People Everywhere) for disaster relief, with a focus on medical needs. The restaurants will also offer 20% off dine-in, takeout and delivery options within the Hendersonville region. The group includes El Paso Mexican Restaurants No. 1 and No. 2, El Paso Mariscos & Taqueria and Tequilas Bar & Grill No. 1 and No. 2. For more information and addresses, visit avl.mx/e9o.

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About Kay West
Kay West began her writing career in NYC, then was a freelance journalist in Nashville for more than 30 years, including contributing writer for the Nashville Scene, Nashville correspondent for People magazine, author of five books and mother of two happily launched grown-up kids. In 2019 she moved to Asheville and continued writing (minus Red Carpet coverage) with a focus on food, farming and hospitality. She is a die-hard NY Yankees fan.

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