What’s new in food: Noodle Hole opens in Marshall

NOODLING AROUND: Ryan Martin spent years mastering the craft of hand-pulled noodles before opening Noodle Hole in Marshall with his wife, Hallee Hirsh. Photo courtesy of Noodle Hole

Ryan Martin’s obsession with hand-pulled noodles became public knowledge on May 23, 2020, via the launch of his Instagram page, @noodle.hole. With his first post, he announced that he had figured out how to consistently pull noodles. Four years later, on Aug. 29, he and his wife, Hallee Hirsh co-owners of Hole Doughnuts in West Asheville — opened Noodle Hole in downtown Marshall. The newest business to take residence in the historic Main Street building serves made-to-order doughnuts in the morning, and after an afternoon break, reopens to serve bowls of noodles and broth in the evening.

Martin’s noodle love was sparked by a meal about eight years ago at a Uyghur restaurant in California. “They pulled one long noodle and then served it to the table with a pair of scissors so you could cut the noodle yourself and share it with the people you were with,” he says.

He was so fascinated that he found videos of people pulling noodles and intently studied the methods, trying to work out dough consistency, recipes and methods. Martin enlisted Hirsh, who speaks Mandarin, to translate the names of the products.

“Eventually, I figured it out, but my family can only eat so many noodles,” he says. (He and Hirsh have two children.) They started doing Noodle Nights at Hole in 2022. The pop-ups were announced on Instagram, and the first 50 people to send him a message were in; typically, all 50 seats would be gone in less than five minutes.

The couple saw an opportunity to invest in Marshall, where they live. “We always wanted to do something closer to home, but we didn’t want to do another Hole,” Martin explains. “We wanted to offer more than just sugar and carbs, so now we do savory carbs, too.”

After rehabilitating the space — 10 stools at a counter overlooking the open kitchen and two more at another counter — Ryan and Hirsh created a unique business model to suit their needs. “There is a pretty set expectation for Hole’s hours of operation,” says Martin. “We wanted to create a business here that works for us instead of us working for it.”

Noodle Hole posts the hours for each week on Mondays in its Instagram bio and on a handwritten sign on the front door — they typically operate Wednesday-Saturday. Doughnut service starts at either 9 or 10 a.m., offering two flavors (one of which is gluten-free).

Hand-pulled, cooked-to-order noodles — one with a beef and pork broth, the other vegan, and a gluten-free rice noodle — begin at 5:30 or 6 p.m. Noodles are not available for takeout.

“They are best when eaten immediately,” Martin asserts. “We could make more money doing takeout, I’m sure, but I’m the only one who can pull the noodles, and I don’t want to be a noodle machine. The entire experience of watching it happen and eating it right there is extremely important to me. Kids really love to watch it.”

Noodle Hole sources locally, including from The Chop Shop, Dry Ridge Farm and Hickory Nut Gap Farm for proteins and other farms for produce. Madison County residents receive a discount. There is no tipping, and everyone who orders a bowl of noodles gets a free doughnut.

Martin intends to expand the menu once he settles in. “I just love the craft of it, taking a lot of care and keeping it simple. It’s like a magic trick every time. “

Noodle Hole is at 133 S. Main St., Marshall. For more information, visit Noodle Hole on Instagram at avl.mx/e5f.

A novel new bar

Seven years after opening Little Jumbo in Montford — named to Garden & Gun magazine’s 2021 list of Best Cocktail Bars in the South — partners Jay Sanders, Lucia Gray and Chall Gray opened Character Study, a bibliophile’s dream gathering spot, on Sept. 12 at 797 Haywood Road in West Asheville.

After assuming the lease five months ago on the shotgun space in the century-old building, the partners first stripped the black paint left on the walls and windows by the most recent tenant, Alley Cat Social Club. Then they quickly created a swanky yet comfortable lounge with shelves filled with books from nearby Bagatelle Books. Seating includes two solo spots — a cushy chair with an ottoman plus a small, single desk. There are also carrels (intimate, library-style cubicle desks), a large gathering space with sofas and chairs, forest green Naugahyde-upholstered booths, a bar fronted by teal Naugahyde stools and a small patio out back. 

“I don’t believe in forcing a concept into a space, so when we got in here, the concept kind of revealed itself,” Chall explains. “I really love books and years ago worked in used and rare bookstores. When I design a bar, I try to incorporate elements I haven’t seen in other places. The solo spots are one of those things, and the carrels.”

The drolly illustrated pages of the menu feature whimsically named cocktails, including the Devil’s Dictionary and Loud Sweater Martini, four snifters priced by the ounce and a quartet of thoughtfully crafted spirit-free drinks.

“Little Jumbo is often described as ‘Montford’s living room,’” says Chall. “Lucia and I have lived in West Asheville for 18 years, and we’re excited to bring that vibe to our neighborhood.”

Character Study is at 797 Haywood Road. For more information, visit avl.mx/e5g.

Asheville Dispensary at Marquee

When  Jimmy Gallagher, founder/owner of West Asheville’s Asheville Dispensary, met Marquee Asheville founder/owner Robert Nicholas, the two entrepreneurs recognized an opportunity to meet each other’s needs.

“Jimmy wanted to expand in Asheville and saw there wasn’t a single tea shop and only one coffee shop in the River Arts District,” says AD head of bar and beverage Nikki Eldred. “Robert really wanted to enhance the experience of visiting Marquee with getting that scent of fresh coffee when you walk in and the opportunity to stroll the space with a healthy beverage in hand.”

The new Asheville Dispensary and Elixir, Coffee & Tea Bar opened just inside the entrance to Marquee the last week of August. Modeled after the original, the dispensary offers cannabis products, CBD, cannabigerol (CBG), edibles, topicals, tinctures and an herbal apothecary. The bar features specialty coffees, traditional Chinese tea service, herbal teas and elixirs, sipping cacao, boba tea, and sweet and savory baked goods from The West End.  The Marquee’s spacious new bar and a drink lounge provide tables and seating.

Asheville Dispensary’s new location is inside Marquee at 36 Foundy St. Hours are 11 a.m.-6 p.m. daily avl.mx/e5m

MOM cooks dinner

Since opening its brick-and-mortar shop on Merrimon Avenue in March 2020, Mother Ocean Seafood Market (fondly called MOM by fans) has grown the crowd of followers that first discovered it at local tailgate markets. Since then, founder Sam Kosik has offered lunch to go and for delivery in addition to fresh seafood. Now, in response to sad faces from customers who arrive after the kitchen closes at 4 p.m., Kosik and partner Chris Dexter are adding two days of dinner service.

New chef Aubry Webb (aka Chef Hunter) will continue cooking po’boys, lobster rolls, fish tacos, tuna melts and baskets of aquatic goodness — including peel-and-eat shrimp and fish and chips — until 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Once Webb settles in, he intends to add specials sourced from MOM’s cases that will draw on his Mississippi and Creole roots. Limited indoor and outdoor seating is available.

Mother Ocean Seafood Market is at 640 Merrimon Ave. For more information, visit avl.mx/ba9.

Go West(ival)

Westival, a new event showcasing West Asheville food and raising funds for 12 Baskets Café and the Ashville Poverty Initiative, debuts Saturday, Sept. 28, at Archetype Brewing

From 4-8 p.m., Westival attendees can sample food from Gan Shan West, Rocky’s Hot Chicken Shack, The Hop Ice Cream, Jargon, Sunny Point Café, Pizza Mind, Taco Billy, West Village Market & Deli, French Broad Pantry, The West End, Food Experience, Botiwalla and Deep Time Coffee. Archetype will sell beer and other beverages.

Tickets for the food tasting are $35 per person. The festival also features a DJ, information tables, activities and raffle tickets for goodie-filled baskets with entertainment, art, wellness and gardening themes.

Archetype Brewing is at 265 Haywood Road. For more information and event or raffle tickets, visit avl.mx/e4j.

Greek life

The Asheville Greek Festival has been one of Asheville’s most popular annual cultural events since 1986, offering a weekend of food, music, dance, demonstrations and vendorsHoly Trinity Greek Orthodox Church hosts this year’s festival Friday and Saturday, Sept. 27-28, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. A one-day pass is $4; two days is $6.

Holy Trinity is at 227 Cumberland Ave. For more information and tickets, visit avl.mx/e5h.

Beer, bourbon and barbecue fundraiser

The 11th annual Taste of the Vineyard Boots and Bourbon fundraiser for Big Brothers Big Sisters of Henderson County will take place at Point Lookout Vineyards on Thursday, Oct. 3.

The evening features a barbecue dinner, cash bar serving craft beer and wines by Point Lookout Vineyards, silent auction and live music by Marley’s Chain. Admission is $75 per person. Specialty bourbon tastings are available at an additional cost. Event registration closes at 9 p.m. Monday, Sept. 30.

Point Lookout Vineyard is at 408 Appleola Road, Hendersonville. For more information and tickets, visit avl.mx/e5j.

SHARE

Thanks for reading through to the end…

We share your inclination to get the whole story. For the past 25 years, Xpress has been committed to in-depth, balanced reporting about the greater Asheville area. We want everyone to have access to our stories. That’s a big part of why we've never charged for the paper or put up a paywall.

We’re pretty sure that you know journalism faces big challenges these days. Advertising no longer pays the whole cost. Media outlets around the country are asking their readers to chip in. Xpress needs help, too. We hope you’ll consider signing up to be a member of Xpress. For as little as $5 a month — the cost of a craft beer or kombucha — you can help keep local journalism strong. It only takes a moment.

About Kay West
Kay West began her writing career in NYC, then was a freelance journalist in Nashville for more than 30 years, including contributing writer for the Nashville Scene, Nashville correspondent for People magazine, author of five books and mother of two happily launched grown-up kids. In 2019 she moved to Asheville and continued writing (minus Red Carpet coverage) with a focus on food, farming and hospitality. She is a die-hard NY Yankees fan.

Before you comment

The comments section is here to provide a platform for civil dialogue on the issues we face together as a local community. Xpress is committed to offering this platform for all voices, but when the tone of the discussion gets nasty or strays off topic, we believe many people choose not to participate. Xpress editors are determined to moderate comments to ensure a constructive interchange is maintained. All comments judged not to be in keeping with the spirit of civil discourse will be removed and repeat violators will be banned. See here for our terms of service. Thank you for being part of this effort to promote respectful discussion.

Leave a Reply

To leave a reply you may Login with your Mountain Xpress account, connect socially or enter your name and e-mail. Your e-mail address will not be published. All fields are required.