Is farm-to-table working?

OUTSTANDING IN THEIR FIELD: Sunil Patel, left, and William Dissen, right, at Patchwork Farms' Pearson plot in Montford. The farmer and chef are both working to improve the local farm-to-table system. Photo by Cindy Kunst

Farm-to-table agriculture has gone mainstream, but does it work as a sustainable model? Some local farmers and restaurateurs aren’t sure, even as they persist in trying.

“Any good farming system has all the components of an actual ecosystem,” says Sunil Patel, who runs Urban Patchwork Farms, a progressive farming venture that seeks to develop inner-city permaculture farms via land sharing with owners of unutilized property. “You’re just mimicking a natural system when you make a healthy farm,” he says.

Patel partners with local restaurants like Bull & Beggar, Table and Storm, to generate enough profit to sustain Patchwork, as well as working with community supported agriculture producers within local communities. “It’s not just [about] farm-to-table. It’s [about matching] the desires of everyone from the grocery stores to restaurants to home kitchens. People want certain products, and they want them year-round, which doesn’t allow good farming to happen. So, I can feel constricted by that kind of demand.”

Therein lies the problem, according to chef and author Dan Barber, who delves into farm-to-table concepts and challenges in his new book, The Third Plate, which was released earlier this year.

Farm-to-table food has “gone from a fringe idea to a mainstream social movement,” he writes. “Its success comes with mounting evidence that our country’s indomitable and abundant food system, for so long the envy of the world, is unstable, if not broken. Eroding soils, falling water tables for irrigation, collapsing fisheries, shrinking forests and deteriorating grasslands represent only a handful of the environmental problems wrought by our food system — problems that will continue to multiply with rising temperatures.”

For centuries, American farming has been driven to produce more and more food, with the demand that it be increasingly cheap, with larger agriculture firms roping in farmers with promises of higher profits, persuading them to grow cash crops like corn or wheat in massive quantities, Barber writes. The practice creates what ecologists call a monoculture, which strips the soil of its nutrients, slowly reducing yields and ruining the land.

Barber proposes that despite practitioners’ best intentions, however, the farm-to-table movement still has not solved the basic problems, including monoculture farming. “The larger problem,” he says, “is that farm-to-table allows, even celebrates, a kind of cherry-picking of ingredients that are often ecologically demanding and expensive to grow.” Market forces drive many farmers to regularly grow tomatoes, corn and other demanding produce rather than having the opportunity to rotate in other restorative plants, vegetables and legumes.

“The farmer ends up servicing the table, not the other way around,” says Barber.

Asheville’s William Dissen, chef of Market Place, agrees. “Is the farm to table system broken? Oh yes, 110 percent. … The way our government subsidizes agriculture is completely backwards,” he says. “You have these major, conventional commodity farms in the Midwest that get these huge tax incentives and government subsidies. I’d like to see a system where they flip-flop that, because the way it is now, the people that are raping the land and are treating animals inhumanely, [yet] they get tax breaks because they produce more.”

Having worked closely with farmers since taking over Market Place in 2009, Dissen has sought to end the cherry-picking habits so common with many farm-to-table chefs, but he says it isn’t easy. “I always like to talk to [farmers] at the beginning of the year, when they are perusing their Johnny Seed catalogs and figuring out what they are going to grow. But at the end of the day, for farms and restaurants, it’s retail. They’ve got goods that they are trying to sell, and we’ve all got to be able to make money.”

Anna Jane Joyner, campaign director for environmental advocacy organization the Western North Carolina Alliance, adds, “Big agriculture is subsidized at a ridiculous amount of money, which inherently stacks the cards against smaller, more innovative farmers.” She continues, “I think there is a systematic change that has to take place. Farmers at our local farmers markets struggle because of the way that our tax systems are set up, because they prioritize traditional, large-scale, monoculture farms, and not the smaller, innovative ones.”

Farmers like Patel focus on developing these small farms in a patchwork across the city and region to provide small harvests of a great variety of vegetables and meats. But can they produce enough to really have an impact?

“A lot of us in the permaculture world are creating these really beautiful systems that, as far as yields go, are lacking quite a bit,” Patel says. “So one of my main missions is to develop systems that generate significant yields, and since I am a landless farmer who just makes partnerships with landowners, and I’m making individual partnerships with people from all over the city, my strategy is to move it to a place where I can start to talk to not just single property owners, but multiple property owners at the same time.”

By doing so, he could conceivably turn an entire block of residential property in a single neighborhood like Montford into an apple orchard or paw paw grove, generating higher yields from less land. “By being able to utilize more land like that, and if the patches like this keep multiplying for the farm, and other farms take on a similar model, I really feel like we can provide so much of the demand for fresh vegetables, herbs, fruits and berries, right here, within the city limits. If we were to start shifting our views of property lines and dropped our notions of what’s mine and theirs, then we’ll be able to zoom out on the city and see that their property can be used for something much bigger.”

“When I think about it,” says Joyner, “when I was growing up, I was fed terribly —lots of processed food, lots of meat and potatoes.” These were all foods that are increasingly being proven to be unsustainable to produce. “But when my mother was growing up, it wasn’t that way. Her parents had a garden. They grew their own food. They ate fresh food.

“But I feel like our society went quickly toward food with poor nutrition and processed food for the sake of convenience. But maybe we could just as quickly come away from that.” She reminds us that we really are getting to a point where we have to make that change, “Big agriculture just isn’t as cheap as what we pay for a strawberry.”


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About Jonathan Ammons
Native Asheville writer, eater, drinker, bartender and musician. Proprietor of Follow me @jonathanammons

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6 thoughts on “Is farm-to-table working?

  1. There are just so many “farm-to-table” “New Southern, y’all” restaurants in Asheville. We don’t need any more.

    It’s time for some new thinking on restaurant concepts — more Asian, regional upscale Chinese, for example.

    Farm-to-fork is a good idea, but it doesn’t have to be stuck in the grits mode.

    –Lan Sluder

  2. I Hate To Even See Tha Sentence Anymore, “Farm To Table”, Because It Means Nothing. All Food Comes,From Some,Sort Of Farm, ButThat Does Not Mean It Is,Food That You Want To Eat Or A Farm System That You Want To Support. Anyone Can Call Themselves A Farm To Table Restaurant And It Means Nothing. I Am Seeing More And More restauranTs Using A Little Bit Of produce From the market And Then using Factory Farmed Meats And Calling Themselves “Farm To Table” Restaurants.

    • You hit it right on the nail Stacy. I see restaurants in this area advertising themselves as supporting local farmers, but all they buy is, as you say, a little bit of produce from the market. They must buy cheap (a/k/a factory farmed) meat in order to make a profit. It’s hard enough, sometimes, to sell meat to the general public who are used to $.99/pound chicken.

  3. Unaffiliated Voter

    sort of like ‘green building’…it’s cliche’ and expected, as long as it doesn’t cost 3 times the real price…

  4. I am quite disappointed that the article does not mention the fact that the Pearson Garden site where Patchwork is pictured has long been a demonstration garden of Bountiful Cities, and that Sunil is farming there as part of Bountiful Cities new farmer incubator program. The way that the article presents it, it sounds like he is farming an un-utilized site when in fact the community has spent years developing that soil and the infrastructure there. To me, his participation in the farmer incubator program is an important part of the story, and I don’t think it is right to show photos of Pearson Garden without mentioning Bountiful Cities and this program. I hope Xpress will follow up with an article on Bountiful Cities’ new program and give credit where credit is due.

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